Shoe construction



Feb. 20, 1934. Q H, RAu-r 1,947,922

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed 061;. 28, 1932 f I'm/612,715.- (I (prance H.Raut;

MWM 7 W.

Patented Feb. 20, 1934 1,947,922 SHOE CONSTRUCTION Clarence H. Raut,Chicago, Ill.

Application October 28,

4 Claims.

The invention relates generally'to a shoe construction and moreparticularly to the construction of the rear or heel portion of theshoe.

In this portion of a shoe, especially in mens shoes, a counterpreferably made of relatively stiff leather is used between the softouter leather, constituting a part of the upper, and the lining. Thepurpose of the counter is to stiffen this portion of the shoe to preventwrinkling and to hold the shoe on the foot. The counter usually has aportion turned laterally inward which may be skived to blend in with theadjacent parts of the shoe, said portion obviously forming a roundedbend with the counter proper.

In a higher grade shoe, the counter is shaped so that the lower portionof the counter proper is straight forming substantially a continuationof the side or edge surface of the sole and heel lifts. In such a shoe,the quality of the leather in the counter is such that this relationshipexists to a great extent during the life of the shoe, thus maintainingthe original neat appearance of this portion of the shoe.

In' cheaper shoes, the counter, while it may provide the properappearance when the shoe is new, is made of such leather or othermaterial that this relationship with the sole and heel lifts will not bemaintained. The counter weakens and this portion of the shoe bulgesoutwardly beyond the side surface of the heel lifts, producing a sloppyappearance and indicating the cheapness of the shoe.

The general object of the invention is to provide a construction inwhich the counter is stiffened, thus maintaining the proper appearancethroughout the life of the shoe and to a greater extent than even in thebetter grade of shoes.

Another object is to provide a construction attaining the foregoingobject, but which is inexpensive to manufacture.

A further object is to provide a construction of this character whichmaintains the proper appearance of the outside of the shoe and at thesame time provides the proper support for and properly fits the heel ofthe foot.

Other objects and advantages will become apparent from the followingdescription taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a rear view, partially in section, of a shoe embodying thefeatures of the invention.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary side view partially in section.

As shown in the drawing, the present embodiment of the inventioncomprises a sole 10 under 1932. Serial No. 639,937

the heel of which are attached a suitable number. of heel lifts 11. Theside edges of the heel lifts are flush with the side edge of the sole toform a substantially vertical surface.

Attached to the sole 10 is an upper 12 usually made of rather softpliableleather. A portion of the upper is turned inwardly, as shown at13, and is attached to the sole.

To stiffen the portion of the upper which extends around the heel of thefoot to prevent it from wrinkling during wear and to make the shoe fitthe heel of the foot, 2. counter is provided comprising a stiffeningportion 14 and an attaching portion 15 turned laterally inward as at 16and secured in any suitable manner to thesole, the upper surface of thisportion of the sole and the attaching portion 15 constituting the heelseat. The lower part of the stiffening portion 14 is shaped in astraight line so that the upper constitutes substantially a continuationof the surface formed by the side edges of 'the sole and heel lifts,while the turn of the counter fits the heel of the foot. Within the shoeis an insole 19 overlying the sole and the portion 15 of the counter,which is curved upwardly at its sides because of the portion 15, andthus fits the heel of the foot.

As mentioned above, in higher grade shoes, the counter is made of suchquality of leather that this relationship between the upper and saidvertical surface is substantially maintained during the life of theshoe. This relationship gives a neat appearance to the shoe, and isdesired for that reason.

In the cheaper shoes, the cost of using leather for the counter whichhas the quality of maintaining its stiffness is excessive, so thatcheaper leathers or other materials are used. A counter made of suchcheaper material, while it may provide the proper appearance when theshoe is new, loses its stiffness in wear, permitting an unsightly bulgeabove the heel seat and destroying a proper fit of the shoe on the foot.

To stiffen the counter and overcome any tendency for it to bulge, thepresent invention contemplates the provision of reinforcing meanstherefor. As shown herein, the reinforcing means comprises a strip 1'7of relatively stiff leather extending around the counter. Preferably,the strip 17 is positioned along the lower edge of the stiffeningportion 14 of the counter at the turn 16 thereof and inside of the upper12. Thus, the strip reinforces the counter and stiflens it where it hasthe greatest tendency to bulge.

The strip 17 has the further function of shaping the adjacent portion ofthe upper 12. To this end, the lower raw edge of the strip 17, as shownat 18, is flush with or slightly below the under surface of theattaching portion 15 of the counter, the strip being skived or sanded toform a continuation of the side surface of the counter. Thus, the stripfills in the space adjacent the turn 16 of the counter and holds theupper in the desired position relative to the vertical side edges of thesole and heel lifts and makes a tight heel seat.

The strip 17 may be secured in place by ce-- menting it to the counterand thus is rigid therewith.

From the above description, it will be apparent that I have provided ashoe construction in which the counter is stiffened in a manner whichwill maintain the proper appearance of this part of the shoe throughoutthe life thereof, and which maintains such appearance to a greaterextent than has heretofore been accomplished by the constructionemployed in higher grade shoes. It will also be apparent that theconstruction herein described is inexpensive to manufacture, andprovides a proper fit of the shoe to the heel of the foot and a properexternal appearance in this part of the shoe.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a shoe, the combination of a sole, a counter of relatively stiffmaterial having its lower edge turned inwardly and attached to the uppersurface of the sole and leaving a ledge I around the sole extendingoutwardly beyond the inturned portion of the counter, an upper ofrelatively soft material covering the outer face of the counter andhaving its lower edge secured between the sole and the inturned portionof the counter, and a reinforcing strip positioned be-- tween the upperand the counter adjacent the inturned portion of the latter with itsupper edge skived to blend into the counter and its lower edge holdingthe upper tightly against the ledge, said lower edge of the strip beingof sufficient thickness to shape the upper so that it forms a continuousunbroken surface with the side edge of the sole.

2. In a shoe, the combination of a flat sole, 2. counter turned inwardlyover the sole to form a rounded inner surface shaped to fit the heel ofthe foot, the inturned portion of the counter being secured to the sole,an upper covering the outer surface of the counter with its lower edgesecured between the counter and the sole, and a shaping strip betweenthe upper and the turn in the counter holding the upper tightly againstthe top face of the sole at the edge thereof so that the upper and theside edge of the sole form a continuous unbroken surface.

3. The combination with a shoe comprising a flat sole, a counter ofstiff material turned inwardly over thesole and secured thereto, saidturn being rounded because of the stiffness of the material, and anupper covering the outer face of the counter and turned inwardly andsecured between the inturned portion of the counter and the sole, ofmeans for shaping the upper adjacent the sole comprising a shaping stripextending along the turn of the counter and resting edgewise against theinturned portion of the upper, the lower outer corner of said stripbeing relatively sharp to hold the upper tightly against the sole.

4. In a shoe, the combination of a sole, a counter of relatively stiffmaterial having its lower edge turned inwardly and attached to the uppersurface of the sole and leaving a ledge J around the sole extendingoutwardly beyond the inturned portion of the counter, an upper ofrelatively soft material covering the outer face of the counter andhaving its lower edge secured between the sole and the inturned portionof the counter, and a shaping element located in the space between theouter surface of the inturned portion of the counter, the ledge on thesole and the upper, and bearing down on the upper to hold the upperagainst the ledge If:

for maintaining the upwardly extending portion of the upper immediatelyadjacent the sole substantially flat and substantially flush with theside edge of the sole.

- CLARENCE H. RAUT.

